LED Savings Calculator
What a whole-house switch to LED bulbs saves — by bulb count, wattage, and hours.
Updated
From your bill — the US average is about $0.175.
You need
$130.31/year
744.6 kWh saved across 10 bulbs
- Saved per month
- $10.86
- Saved per year
- $130.31
- Energy saved a year
- 744.6 kWh
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In short
How much do I save switching 10 bulbs to LED?
Ten 60 W incandescents replaced by 9 W LEDs save 51 W each, which over 4 hours a day is 744.6 kWh a year — about $130.31 at the 17.5 cents per kWh this tool uses by default, or roughly $10.86 a month. The formula is bulbs × watts saved ÷ 1000 × hours × 365 × rate.
The comparison only holds if the two bulbs put out the same light, so match them by lumens rather than by watts before you trust the saving.
How to use the LED savings calculator
Enter how many bulbs you are swapping, the wattage of the old bulbs and the new LEDs, how many hours a day they are on, and your electricity rate, and you get the dollars saved a year, plus the kilowatt-hours behind that number and the monthly figure.
This is the whole-house version: it takes one bulb saving and multiplies it by how many you replace, so it answers what it costs you to leave incandescents in place across a kitchen, a hallway, or an entire house at once. The defaults describe the classic swap — ten 60 W bulbs for 9 W LEDs, four hours a day — which comes to 744.6 kWh and about $130.31 a year at the default rate.
744.6 kWh
Energy saved a year
ten 60 W bulbs swapped for 9 W LEDs
$130.31
Saved a year
at the default 17.5 cents per kWh
$10.86
Saved a month
repeating for the life of the bulbs
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Get the wattages right and the rest follows, but get the light output right first. A standard 60 W incandescent really does draw about 60 watts and puts out roughly 800 lumens, which is an efficacy of about 13 lumens per watt; the Energy Information Administration puts incandescent bulbs generally at 13 to 18 lumens per watt.
A 9 W LED delivering the same 800 lumens is running at about 89 lumens per watt. That is the whole story of the swap in one comparison.
Do
- Match the lumen figure on both boxes before counting any wattage gap as saving.
- Read the actual wattages off the bulbs rather than guessing from memory.
- Run the calculator once per group when you are mixing bulb types.
- Start with the fittings that burn longest: porches, hallways, kitchens, stairwells.
- Use the per-kWh rate from your own bill rather than a national average.
Don't
- Shop by the wattage equivalence on the packaging instead of the lumen figure.
- Average a porch light and a rarely-used lamp into one runtime figure.
- Treat the yearly saving as one-off, since it repeats for the life of the bulbs.
- Expect a bulb that runs a few minutes a day to move the needle.
Bulbs compared the only fair way, at matched light output. Read across a row and the lumens stay the same while the wattage collapses: the same brightness at 15 lumens per watt is an old incandescent, at 45 is the current federal floor, and at 100 or more is an ordinary LED. The last column is what that difference costs you every year on one fitting left on four hours a day.
| Light output | Watts at 15 lm/W, an old incandescent | Watts at 45 lm/W, the current federal floor | Watts at 100 lm/W, an Energy Star LED | Watts at 120 lm/W, the 2028 standard | Yearly cost, incandescent against the 100 lm/W LED |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 250 lumens | 16.7 W | 5.6 W | 2.5 W | 2.1 W | $4.41 against $0.66 |
| 450 lumens | 30.0 W | 10.0 W | 4.5 W | 3.8 W | $7.93 against $1.19 |
| 600 lumens | 40.0 W | 13.3 W | 6.0 W | 5.0 W | $10.58 against $1.59 |
| 800 lumens, the classic 60 W brightness | 53.3 W | 17.8 W | 8.0 W | 6.7 W | $14.10 against $2.12 |
| 1,100 lumens | 73.3 W | 24.4 W | 11.0 W | 9.2 W | $19.39 against $2.91 |
| 1,300 lumens | 86.7 W | 28.9 W | 13.0 W | 10.8 W | $22.92 against $3.44 |
| 1,600 lumens, the classic 100 W brightness | 106.7 W | 35.6 W | 16.0 W | 13.3 W | $28.20 against $4.23 |
| 2,000 lumens | 133.3 W | 44.4 W | 20.0 W | 16.7 W | $35.25 against $5.29 |
| 2,600 lumens | 173.3 W | 57.8 W | 26.0 W | 21.7 W | $45.83 against $6.87 |
| 3,000 lumens | 200.0 W | 66.7 W | 30.0 W | 25.0 W | $52.88 against $7.93 |
| 4,000 lumens | 266.7 W | 88.9 W | 40.0 W | 33.3 W | $70.51 against $10.58 |
| 5,000 lumens | 333.3 W | 111.1 W | 50.0 W | 41.7 W | $88.14 against $13.22 |
| 8,000 lumens | 533.3 W | 177.8 W | 80.0 W | 66.7 W | $141.02 against $21.15 |
| 10,000 lumens | 666.7 W | 222.2 W | 100.0 W | 83.3 W | $176.27 against $26.44 |
Which inputs decide how much you actually save?
Be honest about hours, because runtime is the multiplier that decides whether a swap is worth doing at all. The lamp you read by for an hour at night is a very different bill from the porch light that burns from dusk to dawn or the kitchen ceiling that is on all evening.
The default of 4 hours a day is a fair house-wide average, but a bulb that runs 10 hours saves more than twice what a 4-hour bulb does, and one that is on for a few minutes a day barely moves the needle. Start with the fittings that burn longest — porches, hallways, kitchens, stairwells — because those return the most for exactly the same effort and the same purchase.
The rate is the input that varies most, so use your own. The tool defaults to 17.5 cents per kWh; the Energy Information Administration reported a US residential average of 18.11 cents per kWh year to date for 2026 and 18.44 cents in May 2026, and state figures sit well above and below that.
Add the per-kWh supply and delivery line items on your bill together, or divide a full month total by the kilowatt-hours used, and enter that figure — the dollar saving moves in step with it.
Then read the result as an annual return on a one-time swap: the yearly figure repeats every year for the life of the bulbs, so the kWh number is the rate-free version and the monthly figure is the one to set against the rest of your power bill.
Pricing a single device swap instead?
The energy savings calculator runs the same arithmetic for one device of any kind, from a refrigerator to a pump, rather than a group of bulbs.
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The formula, worked line by line
The saving is just the wattage you no longer draw, turned into energy and then into money. Each bulb watts dropped become kilowatts by dividing by 1,000, you multiply by the hours it runs and by the number of bulbs to get the energy saved a day, and you multiply that by the days in a year and by your rate to get the dollars.
There is no efficiency term anywhere, because the calculation compares two devices doing the same job rather than converting between fuels. What the arithmetic quietly assumes is that the new bulb produces the same light as the old one. That assumption is the whole basis of the comparison, and it is why lumens matter more here than watts do.
Watts measure the power a bulb consumes; lumens measure the light it emits. With incandescents the two tracked each other closely enough that people learned brightness as a wattage, but LEDs broke that link, so the honest way to size a replacement is to match the lumen figure on the two boxes and let the wattage fall where it will.
daily kWh saved = bulbs × ((old watts − new watts) ÷ 1000) × hours per day
annual kWh saved = daily kWh saved × 365
annual saving = annual kWh saved × rate
efficacy in lumens per watt = lumens ÷ watts- Watts saved per bulb
- 60 − 9 = 51 W
- Across ten bulbs
- 10 × 51 ÷ 1000 = 0.51 kW
- Energy saved a day, at 4 hours
- 0.51 × 4 = 2.04 kWh
- Across 365 days
- 744.6 kWh a year
- Annual saving at $0.175 per kWh
- $130.31
The monthly figure the tool shows is 2.04 × (365 ÷ 12) × $0.175 = $10.86, a month of 30.42 days rather than 30, so that twelve of them come to exactly the annual figure instead of landing five days short of it. Push the runtime to 8 hours a day and every one of those figures doubles, which is why the fittings that burn longest are the ones to swap first.
Run the same two bulbs through the efficacy line and the comparison becomes plain. A 60 W incandescent putting out about 800 lumens is running at 800 ÷ 60 = 13.3 lumens per watt, which sits at the bottom of the 13 to 18 lumens per watt range the Energy Information Administration published for incandescent lamps.
A 9 W LED delivering the same 800 lumens is at 800 ÷ 9 = 88.9 lumens per watt. That is close to seven times the light for each watt consumed, and it is the physical reason the saving is so large rather than a marketing claim.
The regulatory floor has moved under this comparison, which is worth knowing before you shop. The federal backstop standard requiring general service lamps to reach at least 45 lumens per watt took effect on 25 July 2022, with enforcement beginning in January 2023 for manufacture and import and in July 2023 for retail sale, and a 45 lumens per watt floor is already well above anything an incandescent or halogen lamp can reach.
The Department of Energy then finalised a stronger standard on 12 April 2024 requiring more than 120 lumens per watt, with compliance from 25 July 2028.
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Questions people ask
How much do I save switching 10 bulbs to LED?
Swapping ten 60 W incandescents for 9 W LEDs running 4 hours a day at $0.175 per kWh saves 744.6 kWh a year, which is about $130.31, or roughly $10.86 a month. Each bulb drops 51 watts, and across ten bulbs and a full year that adds up quickly. Bulbs that run longer save proportionally more, and the saving repeats every year for the life of the LEDs, so treat the figure as an annual return on a single one-time swap rather than a one-off gain.
How many watts is a 60 W bulb in LED?
About 9 watts, if you match the light rather than the power. A 60 W incandescent puts out roughly 800 lumens, which works out to 13.3 lumens per watt, and the Energy Information Administration places incandescent lamps generally at 13 to 18 lumens per watt. An LED delivering the same 800 lumens at around 89 lumens per watt needs about 9 watts to do it. Shop by the lumen figure on the box, because 800 lumens is the 60 W brightness whatever wattage the packaging claims as an equivalent.
Why compare bulbs by lumens instead of watts?
Watts measure the power a bulb draws, not the light it puts out. With incandescents the two tracked together closely enough that people learned brightness as a wattage, so 60 W came to mean a certain amount of light. LEDs break that link by producing the same light for a fraction of the power, so wattage no longer tells you how bright a bulb is. Lumens measure the actual light output — around 800 lumens for a 60 W replacement and 1,600 for a 100 W one — so buy by lumens and let the low wattage be the saving.
Are incandescent bulbs still legal to buy?
Not as general service lamps in the United States. The federal backstop standard requiring at least 45 lumens per watt took effect on 25 July 2022, with enforcement from January 2023 for manufacture and import and July 2023 for retail sale, and no incandescent or halogen general service lamp reaches 45 lumens per watt. The Department of Energy finalised a tougher standard on 12 April 2024 requiring more than 120 lumens per watt, with compliance required from 25 July 2028. Bulbs already bought or installed are unaffected and can be used until they fail.
What makes the biggest difference to the saving?
Two levers dominate: how many bulbs you swap and how many hours they run. The saving is one bulb figure multiplied by both, so doubling either roughly doubles the result, and a fitting on 10 hours a day is worth two and a half of one on 4. The wattage gap matters too, since a 60 W to 9 W swap beats a 60 W to 12 W one, and your rate scales the dollar figure. Start with the bulbs that are on the most hours, because those return the most for the same purchase.
Sources
Where the constants and formulas on this page come from. Each line names the figure it backs.
That incandescent bulbs give 13 to 18 lumens per watt while ENERGY STAR LEDs surpass 100 lumens per watt — the efficacy gap the whole saving is calculated from.
LED light bulbs keep improving in efficiency and quality — US Energy Information Administration, 4 November 2014
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