Generator Size Calculator
The right generator wattage — running watts plus one starting surge, with 20% headroom.
Updated
You need
6,240 Wgenerator
recommended size, with 20% headroom over peak demand
- Running watts
- 3,000 W
- Peak surge demand
- 5,200 W
- Recommended (+20%)
- 6,240 W
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In short
What size generator do I need?
Recommended size = (running watts + the single largest starting surge) × 1.20. With 3,000 running watts and a 2,200 W surge that is a 5,200 W peak and a 6,240 W recommendation, so you would buy the next standard unit up, typically 7,000 or 7,500 W. Drop the surge to zero and the same running load needs only 3,600 W.
This sizes a portable generator for loads you choose to plug in; a permanently connected standby unit needs a load calculation and a transfer switch from a licensed electrician.
How to use the generator size calculator
Enter the total running watts of everything you intend to power at once and the additional starting surge of the single largest motor-driven appliance, and the tool returns the peak demand and a recommended generator size with 20 percent headroom already built in.
Read the second field carefully, because it is the one people fill in wrong: it wants the extra watts the biggest motor needs to get spinning, on top of the running figure you have already counted, not that appliance total starting wattage.
If a wattage chart lists a refrigerator at 700 running and 1,200 starting, the 700 belongs in the running total and the 500 difference is what belongs in the surge field. Getting that distinction right is the difference between a sensible recommendation and one that is 700 watts too big.
5,200 W
Peak demand
3,000 running + 2,200 surge
6,240 W
Recommended size
peak × 1.20 headroom
7,500 W
What you shop for
or 7,000, the next standard size up
Running watts against starting watts is the single most common generator-sizing mistake, and it exists because of how induction motors behave at standstill. A stationary rotor produces no back-EMF to oppose the applied voltage, so the winding impedance is just copper resistance and leakage reactance, and the current that flows for the first fraction of a second is far above the running figure.
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General-purpose induction motors on a direct-on-line start draw roughly five to eight times full-load amps at that instant, which is why manufacturer wattage charts show refrigerators, pumps, compressors and washing machines with starting figures well above their running ones. Size a generator to running watts alone and it will hold your lights beautifully and then stall the moment the well pump kicks in.
The 20 percent headroom is there because a generator should not live at 100 percent of its rating. Continuous flat-out operation runs the engine hot, burns more fuel per watt delivered, and leaves nothing at all for the next thing somebody plugs in.
Sizing to 120 percent of peak demand keeps the unit in a band it can hold for hours at a stretch. Then round up to the next unit on the shelf, because generators are sold in fixed steps rather than to the watt, and the recommendation will rarely match a size on a price tag exactly.
Riding out the outage on batteries?
A bank answers the same question in hours rather than watts, and the battery life calculator turns a capacity and a steady draw into runtime.
Open the battery life calculator →Do
- Enter only the extra watts the biggest motor needs above its running figure.
- List the essentials you truly need running at once, not the whole house.
- Round up to the next standard generator size on the shelf.
- Run it outdoors, at least 20 feet from the house, exhaust directed away.
Don't
- Put an appliance total starting wattage in the surge field, which counts the running watts twice.
- Add every appliance surge together, since motors on separate controls rarely start at once.
- Size to running watts alone, or the unit stalls the moment the pump kicks in.
- Operate a portable generator in a garage, basement, crawlspace, shed or on a porch.
Running against starting watts for common household loads, and the extra surge figure to type into the second field of this tool. The fourth column is the one that matters here: it is the starting figure minus the running figure, because the running watts are already counted in your first total and adding the full starting figure would count them twice.
| Load | Running (rated) watts | Starting (peak) watts | Additional surge to enter here | Starting as a multiple of running |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Refrigerator | 700 W | 1,200 W | 500 W | About 1.7 times |
| Sump pump, one-third horsepower | 800 W | 1,300 W | 500 W | About 1.6 times |
| Window air conditioner | 1,200 W | 1,800 W | 600 W | About 1.5 times |
| Washing machine | 1,200 W | 2,300 W | 1,100 W | About 1.9 times |
| Air compressor, one horsepower | 1,600 W | 2,800 W | 1,200 W | About 1.8 times |
| Circular saw | 1,400 W | 2,300 W | 900 W | About 1.6 times |
| Microwave oven | 1,000 W | 1,000 W | 0 W | No surge |
| Electric space heater | 1,500 W | 1,500 W | 0 W | No surge |
| Electric water heater | 4,000 W | 4,000 W | 0 W | No surge |
| Resistive loads generally: lights, kettles, toasters, heaters | As labelled | Same as running | 0 W | No surge at all, so nothing to add |
| Electronics: television, router, laptop, phone chargers | As labelled, usually small | Same as running | 0 W | No meaningful surge |
| Universal-motor hand tools: drills, grinders, saws | Varies by tool | Above running | Difference between the two | Roughly 1.5 to 2 times |
| Split-phase and capacitor-start motors: pumps, compressors, fridges | Varies by motor | Well above running | Difference between the two | Roughly 1.5 to 3 times on wattage charts, though instantaneous locked-rotor current is 5 to 8 times full-load amps |
| Central air conditioning or a heat pump compressor | Varies widely by tonnage | The largest single surge in most homes | Use the manufacturer figure | Get a licensed electrician to do this one properly |
Which starting surge do you actually add?
You add the surge of only one appliance, and that is a deliberate simplification rather than an oversight. Motors on independent thermostats and pressure switches almost never start on the same instant, so the realistic worst case is everything running plus one motor starting.
Adding every surge together would oversize the generator badly, costing money at purchase and fuel every hour thereafter, since a lightly loaded engine is running well below its efficient band. If you genuinely have two large motors that can start together because they share a control — some heat pump and well pump arrangements do — then enter both surges combined, but treat that as the exception you can justify rather than the default.
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Full guide
What Size Generator Do I Need? Wattage by Scenario
Running watts plus one surge, times 1.2. The honest tally that gets it right, and the mistake that stalls a generator the moment the compressor kicks in.
Read the full guide →The formula, worked line by line
The generator has to survive its worst instant, not its average hour. That worst instant is everything you have running drawing its steady current while one motor is trying to start, so peak demand is the running total plus a single starting surge. The recommendation then adds a fifth on top, because a generator held at its exact rating has no margin left for error, for the next appliance, or for a hot afternoon.
The headroom multiplier of 1.20 is a sizing convention rather than a physical constant. It exists for the same reason you do not choose a car engine that can only just reach the speed limit: continuous operation at the limit is hot, thirsty per watt delivered, and unforgiving of anything unexpected. Manufacturer sizing guidance commonly recommends adding around 20 percent above calculated demand for exactly this reason.
peak demand = running watts + largest starting surge
recommended size = peak demand × 1.20
3,000 W + 2,200 W = 5,200 W peak
5,200 W × 1.20 = 6,240 W recommended- Running watts
- 3,000 W
- Largest starting surge
- + 2,200 W
- Peak demand
- 5,200 W
- Headroom
- × 1.20
- Recommended size
- 6,240 W
No generator is sold at 6,240 W, so you round up to the next standard size, which in practice means a 7,000 or 7,500 W unit. Remove the motor loads entirely and set the surge to zero and the same 3,000 running watts needs only 3,000 × 1.20 = 3,600 W, which a 3,500 W unit very nearly covers and a 4,000 W unit covers comfortably.
Notice how much of that recommendation the surge alone is responsible for. The 2,200 W surge adds 2,640 W to the recommendation once the headroom multiplier is applied, which is 42 percent of the final figure produced by an event lasting a fraction of a second.
That is why the choice of which appliance surge to enter deserves a moment of thought, and why swapping a motor-driven appliance for one with a soft-start or inverter-driven compressor can drop the generator you need by a whole size class.
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Questions people ask
What size generator do I need for my house essentials?
Add the running watts of everything you will run at once, add the additional starting surge of the largest single motor, then add 20 percent. With 3,000 running watts and a 2,200 W surge that is 5,200 W of peak demand and a 6,240 W recommendation, which you round up to the next standard unit at 7,000 or 7,500 W. Enter your own figures for a number that matches your list rather than a generic household, since the surge term alone can swing the answer by a whole size class.
Covered in depth in What Size Generator Do I Need? Wattage by Scenario →
What is the difference between running watts and starting watts?
Running watts is the steady power a device draws once it is up and going. Starting watts is the brief spike a motor needs to get moving from standstill, where the rotor produces no back-EMF and the winding impedance is little more than copper resistance, so current surges. General-purpose induction motors on a direct-on-line start draw roughly five to eight times full-load amps at that instant. Sizing a generator to running watts alone is the classic mistake, because it stalls the moment a compressor or pump tries to start.
Which appliance surge should I add?
Only the largest one. Motors on separate thermostats and pressure switches almost never start on the same instant, so the realistic worst case is everything running plus one motor starting. Adding every surge together would oversize the generator badly, which costs money up front and fuel every hour it runs lightly loaded. The exception is two large motors that genuinely start together because they share a control; if that describes your setup, combine those two surges and treat it as a justified exception rather than the default.
Why does the tool add 20 percent headroom?
Because a generator held continuously at 100 percent of its rating runs hot, burns more fuel per watt delivered, and leaves no margin for the next thing anyone plugs in. Sizing to 120 percent of peak demand keeps the engine inside the band it can hold for hours at a stretch, which is the same logic behind not running a car engine at redline all day. Manufacturer sizing guidance commonly recommends about 20 percent above calculated demand for exactly this reason, and generators are then bought at the next standard size above that.
Where is it safe to run a portable generator?
Outdoors only, and further away than most people assume. The US Consumer Product Safety Commission directs that a portable generator never be operated inside a home, garage, basement, crawlspace or shed, or on a porch, and that it be run at least 20 feet from the house with the exhaust directed away from any building someone could enter. Opening doors or windows does not provide enough ventilation to prevent lethal carbon monoxide building up in an enclosed space, so no amount of airflow makes an indoor location acceptable.
Sources
Where the constants and formulas on this page come from. Each line names the figure it backs.
That a portable generator must never run inside a home, garage, basement, crawlspace, shed or on a porch, and must be operated outdoors at least 20 feet from the house with the exhaust directed away.
What to Know About Portable Generators and Carbon Monoxide — US Consumer Product Safety Commission, 2022
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