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Generator Size Calculator

The right generator wattage — running watts plus one starting surge, with 20% headroom.

Updated

3,000 W
2,200 W

You need

6,240 Wgenerator

recommended size, with 20% headroom over peak demand

Running watts
3,000 W
Peak surge demand
5,200 W
Recommended (+20%)
6,240 W

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In short

What size generator do I need?

Recommended size = (running watts + the single largest starting surge) × 1.20. With 3,000 running watts and a 2,200 W surge that is a 5,200 W peak and a 6,240 W recommendation, so you would buy the next standard unit up, typically 7,000 or 7,500 W. Drop the surge to zero and the same running load needs only 3,600 W.

This sizes a portable generator for loads you choose to plug in; a permanently connected standby unit needs a load calculation and a transfer switch from a licensed electrician.

How to use the generator size calculator

Enter the total running watts of everything you intend to power at once and the additional starting surge of the single largest motor-driven appliance, and the tool returns the peak demand and a recommended generator size with 20 percent headroom already built in.

Read the second field carefully, because it is the one people fill in wrong: it wants the extra watts the biggest motor needs to get spinning, on top of the running figure you have already counted, not that appliance total starting wattage.

If a wattage chart lists a refrigerator at 700 running and 1,200 starting, the 700 belongs in the running total and the 500 difference is what belongs in the surge field. Getting that distinction right is the difference between a sensible recommendation and one that is 700 watts too big.

5,200 W

Peak demand

3,000 running + 2,200 surge

6,240 W

Recommended size

peak × 1.20 headroom

7,500 W

What you shop for

or 7,000, the next standard size up

Running watts against starting watts is the single most common generator-sizing mistake, and it exists because of how induction motors behave at standstill. A stationary rotor produces no back-EMF to oppose the applied voltage, so the winding impedance is just copper resistance and leakage reactance, and the current that flows for the first fraction of a second is far above the running figure.

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General-purpose induction motors on a direct-on-line start draw roughly five to eight times full-load amps at that instant, which is why manufacturer wattage charts show refrigerators, pumps, compressors and washing machines with starting figures well above their running ones. Size a generator to running watts alone and it will hold your lights beautifully and then stall the moment the well pump kicks in.

The 20 percent headroom is there because a generator should not live at 100 percent of its rating. Continuous flat-out operation runs the engine hot, burns more fuel per watt delivered, and leaves nothing at all for the next thing somebody plugs in.

Sizing to 120 percent of peak demand keeps the unit in a band it can hold for hours at a stretch. Then round up to the next unit on the shelf, because generators are sold in fixed steps rather than to the watt, and the recommendation will rarely match a size on a price tag exactly.

Riding out the outage on batteries?

A bank answers the same question in hours rather than watts, and the battery life calculator turns a capacity and a steady draw into runtime.

Open the battery life calculator

Do

  • Enter only the extra watts the biggest motor needs above its running figure.
  • List the essentials you truly need running at once, not the whole house.
  • Round up to the next standard generator size on the shelf.
  • Run it outdoors, at least 20 feet from the house, exhaust directed away.

Don't

  • Put an appliance total starting wattage in the surge field, which counts the running watts twice.
  • Add every appliance surge together, since motors on separate controls rarely start at once.
  • Size to running watts alone, or the unit stalls the moment the pump kicks in.
  • Operate a portable generator in a garage, basement, crawlspace, shed or on a porch.

Running against starting watts for common household loads, and the extra surge figure to type into the second field of this tool. The fourth column is the one that matters here: it is the starting figure minus the running figure, because the running watts are already counted in your first total and adding the full starting figure would count them twice.

LoadRunning (rated) wattsStarting (peak) wattsAdditional surge to enter hereStarting as a multiple of running
Refrigerator700 W1,200 W500 WAbout 1.7 times
Sump pump, one-third horsepower800 W1,300 W500 WAbout 1.6 times
Window air conditioner1,200 W1,800 W600 WAbout 1.5 times
Washing machine1,200 W2,300 W1,100 WAbout 1.9 times
Air compressor, one horsepower1,600 W2,800 W1,200 WAbout 1.8 times
Circular saw1,400 W2,300 W900 WAbout 1.6 times
Microwave oven1,000 W1,000 W0 WNo surge
Electric space heater1,500 W1,500 W0 WNo surge
Electric water heater4,000 W4,000 W0 WNo surge
Resistive loads generally: lights, kettles, toasters, heatersAs labelledSame as running0 WNo surge at all, so nothing to add
Electronics: television, router, laptop, phone chargersAs labelled, usually smallSame as running0 WNo meaningful surge
Universal-motor hand tools: drills, grinders, sawsVaries by toolAbove runningDifference between the twoRoughly 1.5 to 2 times
Split-phase and capacitor-start motors: pumps, compressors, fridgesVaries by motorWell above runningDifference between the twoRoughly 1.5 to 3 times on wattage charts, though instantaneous locked-rotor current is 5 to 8 times full-load amps
Central air conditioning or a heat pump compressorVaries widely by tonnageThe largest single surge in most homesUse the manufacturer figureGet a licensed electrician to do this one properly
Compiled July 2026. The numeric rows are average running and starting wattage values published in a generator wattage reference drawing on Honda Power Equipment and Generac manuals and Energy.gov; individual appliances vary widely, so use the figures on your own nameplates where you have them. The descriptive rows give multiplier ranges rather than watts because the answer depends entirely on the motor.

Which starting surge do you actually add?

You add the surge of only one appliance, and that is a deliberate simplification rather than an oversight. Motors on independent thermostats and pressure switches almost never start on the same instant, so the realistic worst case is everything running plus one motor starting.

Adding every surge together would oversize the generator badly, costing money at purchase and fuel every hour thereafter, since a lightly loaded engine is running well below its efficient band. If you genuinely have two large motors that can start together because they share a control — some heat pump and well pump arrangements do — then enter both surges combined, but treat that as the exception you can justify rather than the default.

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Generator sizing formula, step by step From tally to generator size Two inputs, one multiplication, then round up to a real machine THE STEP CALCULATOR DEFAULTS 1 · Total the running watts of everything on at once 3,000 W 2 · Add the single largest motor’s starting surge + 2,200 W 3 · Peak demand = running + surge 5,200 W 4 · Recommended size = peak × 1.20 6,240 W Round up to the next standard size 7,000–7,500 W unit
Running watts + the largest surge -> the generator size you need.

The formula, worked line by line

The generator has to survive its worst instant, not its average hour. That worst instant is everything you have running drawing its steady current while one motor is trying to start, so peak demand is the running total plus a single starting surge. The recommendation then adds a fifth on top, because a generator held at its exact rating has no margin left for error, for the next appliance, or for a hot afternoon.

The headroom multiplier of 1.20 is a sizing convention rather than a physical constant. It exists for the same reason you do not choose a car engine that can only just reach the speed limit: continuous operation at the limit is hot, thirsty per watt delivered, and unforgiving of anything unexpected. Manufacturer sizing guidance commonly recommends adding around 20 percent above calculated demand for exactly this reason.

peak demand = running watts + largest starting surge
recommended size = peak demand × 1.20
3,000 W + 2,200 W = 5,200 W peak
5,200 W × 1.20 = 6,240 W recommended
Sizing a generator3,000 running watts plus a 2,200 watt starting surge is 5,200 watts of peak demand; with 20 percent headroom the generator should be 6,240 watts.(RUNNING + SURGE) × 1.2run + surge5,200 W×headroom1.2=generator6,240 W
3,000 running + 2,200 surge = 5,200 W peak; +20% headroom is a 6,240 W generator.
The worked default, step by step
Running watts
3,000 W
Largest starting surge
+ 2,200 W
Peak demand
5,200 W
Headroom
× 1.20
Recommended size
6,240 W

No generator is sold at 6,240 W, so you round up to the next standard size, which in practice means a 7,000 or 7,500 W unit. Remove the motor loads entirely and set the surge to zero and the same 3,000 running watts needs only 3,000 × 1.20 = 3,600 W, which a 3,500 W unit very nearly covers and a 4,000 W unit covers comfortably.

Notice how much of that recommendation the surge alone is responsible for. The 2,200 W surge adds 2,640 W to the recommendation once the headroom multiplier is applied, which is 42 percent of the final figure produced by an event lasting a fraction of a second.

That is why the choice of which appliance surge to enter deserves a moment of thought, and why swapping a motor-driven appliance for one with a soft-start or inverter-driven compressor can drop the generator you need by a whole size class.

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Questions people ask

What size generator do I need for my house essentials?

Add the running watts of everything you will run at once, add the additional starting surge of the largest single motor, then add 20 percent. With 3,000 running watts and a 2,200 W surge that is 5,200 W of peak demand and a 6,240 W recommendation, which you round up to the next standard unit at 7,000 or 7,500 W. Enter your own figures for a number that matches your list rather than a generic household, since the surge term alone can swing the answer by a whole size class.

Covered in depth in What Size Generator Do I Need? Wattage by Scenario

What is the difference between running watts and starting watts?

Running watts is the steady power a device draws once it is up and going. Starting watts is the brief spike a motor needs to get moving from standstill, where the rotor produces no back-EMF and the winding impedance is little more than copper resistance, so current surges. General-purpose induction motors on a direct-on-line start draw roughly five to eight times full-load amps at that instant. Sizing a generator to running watts alone is the classic mistake, because it stalls the moment a compressor or pump tries to start.

Which appliance surge should I add?

Only the largest one. Motors on separate thermostats and pressure switches almost never start on the same instant, so the realistic worst case is everything running plus one motor starting. Adding every surge together would oversize the generator badly, which costs money up front and fuel every hour it runs lightly loaded. The exception is two large motors that genuinely start together because they share a control; if that describes your setup, combine those two surges and treat it as a justified exception rather than the default.

Why does the tool add 20 percent headroom?

Because a generator held continuously at 100 percent of its rating runs hot, burns more fuel per watt delivered, and leaves no margin for the next thing anyone plugs in. Sizing to 120 percent of peak demand keeps the engine inside the band it can hold for hours at a stretch, which is the same logic behind not running a car engine at redline all day. Manufacturer sizing guidance commonly recommends about 20 percent above calculated demand for exactly this reason, and generators are then bought at the next standard size above that.

Where is it safe to run a portable generator?

Outdoors only, and further away than most people assume. The US Consumer Product Safety Commission directs that a portable generator never be operated inside a home, garage, basement, crawlspace or shed, or on a porch, and that it be run at least 20 feet from the house with the exhaust directed away from any building someone could enter. Opening doors or windows does not provide enough ventilation to prevent lethal carbon monoxide building up in an enclosed space, so no amount of airflow makes an indoor location acceptable.

Sources

Where the constants and formulas on this page come from. Each line names the figure it backs.

  1. That a portable generator must never run inside a home, garage, basement, crawlspace, shed or on a porch, and must be operated outdoors at least 20 feet from the house with the exhaust directed away.

    What to Know About Portable Generators and Carbon MonoxideUS Consumer Product Safety Commission, 2022

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